OK, roses have played a big part in my life this year… but this post does not involve roses. It does involve things not smelling like their names imply they should, only in this case you already know this going in, because it’s Le Labo.

I managed to visit the Le Labo boutique on Newbury Street in Boston a couple of days before the end of September to smell the new Shanghai city exclusive, Myrrhe 55. Daniel’s (Leave No Cologne Unturned) brilliant poetic post had helped me set expectations for it. Indeed, the myrrh was hard to find, although I could be convinced of its subtle presence. My own experience was of strawberry bubblegum turning into a rosy neo-chypre. I had difficulty picking up on the jasmine that seems to be the predominant impression for others, although after a few days on the blotter, the drydown revealed the familiar Le Labo citrus-musk base (where I’m usually more likely to find jasmine as well).

Only fairly recently did I find out that Boston had a second Le Labo boutique, in the Seaport District. Apparently it’s been there for about a year. I made a point to visit and smell the newest fragrance in their classic collection: Lavande 31, which just came out on Sunday (October 1). According to the brand website:

In true Le Labo form, LAVANDE 31 knocks all preconceived notions of lavender on its head. Its bergamote and neroli essential oils give it a fresh lift-off to reveal a lavender of the greatest purity, where only the flower buds are distilled, giving the creation verticality and richness.

Its foundation is pure Le Labo: ambery, dirty, and musky notes, blended with notes of tonka to give this perfume a regressive classic style that is both clean and dirty, recognizable yet truly unique. Nope, this isn’t the lavender you thought you knew. Welcome to a new reality.

So, they’ve already told us not to expect lavender as we know it. They weren’t kidding about the neroli. It’s all I could smell for the most part. It fades gently into a very clean soap. After several hours on the blotter, I’m still not really getting lavender, unless that is the soap in its role as Best Supporting Actor, slow dancing with the musk. I would love to smell the raw material they use.

Speaking of raw material, I have always enjoyed their display of ingredients for each fragrance. In this case, these include cotton and rough angelite stones to represent ambergris (I asked). The others are a bit easier to figure out. It’s all about the full presentation, after all.

Have you tried Lavande 31? What do you think?