I’ve never mentioned my blogiversary because I don’t usually remember it. However, it was 5 years ago today that I put my first perfume-related post into the world, after renaming my existing (but inactive) blog Nose Prose. My significant other swanned into the room and gave me a smooch, and I announced to him, “YOU JUST KISSED A PERFUME BLOGGER!” Of course, he had no idea what I was talking about at the time, but now he is one of my most faithful (though not very expeditious) readers. Thank you all as well for accompanying me on this journey thus far!

Inspired by this milestone, I created a new logo. It was driven by aesthetics more than any deeper meaning, although I like the visual analogy of a hinged object—a pistachio? a purse?—opening to beam ideas up into the universe. In reverse, it could also be a funnel to collect precious drops of perfume into a reserve—of experience, knowledge, and shared memories immortalized in words. The font is Bauhaus, based on the design approach that I admire, with its focus on streamlined, geometric shapes and the function of products.

After a week in unfamiliar perfume territory, I decided to plunge into my old favorites and write about them to remind myself what they are. It’s been very positive for my mental and emotional health to wear and pay attention to these. Flaconneur’s recent post about discovery sets being a great way to experience new brands made me wonder how many of my full-bottle perfume loves were first encountered in this format, so I’ve included a little origin story of each.

Monday, Jan. 8: Le Labo Ylang 49 (2015)—This rose, ylang, and patchouli powerhouse brings sunshine to my day any time of year. It’s modern but this time it felt vintage in a way, although I’m not sure why. I fell in love with the juicy florals in this from the discovery set I bought during my first visit to a Le Labo boutique in New York, early in my perfumery hobby.

• Perfumer: Frank Voelkl

Tuesday, Jan. 9: Atelier Materi Cacao Porcelana (2019)—As its name suggests, the smoothest chocolate imaginable. Warm and cocooning, not too sweet. It was the only sample I received at ScentXplore 2022 and the last perfume with which I fell in love.

• Perfumer: Marie Hugentobler

Wednesday, Jan. 10: Parfum d’Empire Osmanthus Interdite (2007)—The perfect balance of osmanthus, apricot, tea, and a light suede. These are some of my favorite notes, yet they can easily be taken in different directions that I don’t like, which is perhaps partly why this one is so special for getting it right. I requested this sample with a purchase based on reading the notes, and it turned out to be a big win.

• Perfumer: Marc-Antoine Corticchiato

Thursday, Jan. 11: 4160Tuesdays Drive Them Wild (2019)—Another perfume I find suited for all seasons, this cozy concoction of orange, florals, vanilla, tonka, and cocoa keeps me coming back for more. Sarah kindly included a sample of this with the bottle of Red Queen that I purchased directly from her on a visit to her London studio in 2019.

• Perfumer: Sarah McCartney

Friday, Jan. 12: Ormonde Jayne Montabaco Intensivo (2013)—Tobacco, suede, and tea… those notes that can be magic or taken askew. Here, they are in a captivating balance with light citrus, florals, and glossy musks. Juniper, clary sage, and Hedione are listed, which I’m sure are contributing to the airy, “surround sound” quality. I fell for the sample of Montabaco in a discovery set, also in my early days. When I was ready for a bottle, I got greedy and bought the Intensivo version at higher concentration, but I would be just as happy with the original.

• Perfumer: Geza Schoen

Saturday, Jan. 13: Penhaligon’s The Coveted Duchess Rose (2016)—A dark rose enhanced by mandarin, woods, and musks. I first smelled this at Heathrow airport in London, and the memory lingered, so I requested a bottle for Christmas. The golden fox figure on the cap is part of the appeal. I wish the scent had better staying power, but you can’t have everything.

• Perfumer: Christophe Raynaud

Sunday, Jan. 14: strangelove meltmyheart pure perfume oil (2017)—How to describe this quietly luxurious beauty? The smoothest, creamiest blend of chocolate and orris, supported by ylang-ylang and sandalwood. I first experienced the eau de parfum from a strangelove discovery set that I purchased, and later bought the pure perfume oil with the gold-plated “potion pendant” featuring a sculpted rose on the cap (at a great discount, I will admit).

• Perfumer: Christophe Laudamiel

Monday, Jan. 15: Jeroboam Vespero (2017)—A fruity, musky leather extrait that I’m surprised is billed explicitly “for men” in this day and age of niche; not least because to my nose, it leans feminine initially. The fruit notes are apple and grapefruit. The leather is kept light for a while by bergamot, cedar, jasmine, and woody notes before eventually succumbing to its dark (“masculine”?) nature. I received a very generous selection of samples with a modest purchase from the Jovoy boutique in London in 2019, and this was the standout for me.

• Perfumer: Vanina Muracciole

Tuesday, Jan. 16: Olfactory NYC Leo—I could not find information about when this was launched, but would guess that it was in 2017 when Olfactory NYC was founded. Leo lists cedarwood, suede, fig, and patchouli as main notes. I visited their first boutique on Mott Street in New York, smelled everything they had, and decided on “customizing” my bottle by maxing out the fig-cedarwood accord. A fresh, juicy, green fig in still life.

• Perfumer: Frank Voelkl

Hermès Galop d’Hermès (2016) rounds out my top ten. Its reputation preceded its scent for me—with such a sleek, stirrup-shaped bottle design and notes of rose and leather, what wasn’t to love? I marched into the Hermès flagship store in New York hoping that “nothing” was the answer. Indeed, after one sniff, I was sold. I don’t wear Galop very often, but every time I do, I’m won over again as though for the first time. Other notes include quince, saffron, osmanthus, and musk. The feel is soft, more like cashmere than leather.

• Perfumer: Christine Nagel

I should emphasize that this list isn’t in any order—I really can’t rank them, and not for lack of trying! “Special occasion” fragrances such as Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady or long-discontinued gems like The Body Shop Amorito were not included. The selection may even change a bit next year as I get better acquainted with other perfumes.

It was somewhat eye-opening to see that all of these are modern, with most having been released within the last 10 years. A recurring theme is floral notes (particularly rose, osmanthus, and ylang-ylang), chocolate, and leather or suede. As for method of discovery: 3 were via discovery sets, 4 were “one-off” samples, and with 3, a single sniff at a retailer was all it took.

Please share any trends you have found in your own favorites!