The first version of Amouage Interlude I had experienced was a sample of Interlude 53 Man, an incredible extrait at 53% concentration that accompanied me on several trips in different seasons and worked well in all (including the extremes of deep winter and hot, humid summer). It is a resinous leather reinforced by oud and enhanced by an unusual top note of oregano. I subsequently purchased a full bottle at a discount, which as of writing sits unopened.
At some point much later, I learned of Interlude Black Iris (also by perfumer Pierre Negrin and also launched in 2020), and from everything I read, it was a smoother, more wearable version of Interlude, without any “foody” notes. Of course, I had to get my hands on a sample. A risky exploration, as the possibility of FOMO (fear of missing out) about my previous purchase seemed pretty high.
With the memory of the sharp, stiff leather of Interlude 53 Man fixed in my mind and nose, my initial impression of Interlude Black Iris was that it felt collapsed, amorphous, smudged, and smeared by way of the eponymous orris note. I wanted more from it, a more defined edge. No FOMO after all.
However, now that I am finishing my sample vial after 13 wears, it has grown on me. It is comfortable like a favorite cashmere sweater, tending to blend seamlessly into the background (but able to be summoned anytime with a slight shake of a piece of clothing), whereas Interlude 53 Man more resembles a leather jacket, an outer layer of protection.
Both share notes of bergamot, amber, labdanum, leather, oud, sandalwood, and patchouli. Interlude 53 Man takes a spicier, smokier direction while Interlude Black Iris leans more powdery and creamy, with additional top notes of violet leaf and rosemary.
Per the brand copy on the sample packaging:
Crafted as an overpainting, Interlude Black Iris uses a refined palette to smoothen the facets of the original creation. A complex interplay of dark stoic serenity and buried vibrant power bursting upwards, into the light.
This description makes total sense to me and explains why I wish for more sculpture from this fragrance—it does indeed feel as though something smoldering is making effort to rise to the surface. Perhaps it’s held down by the treacle of heavy resins in the base. The overall effect is warm and sweet in a reassuring, deep way; the sweetness is more like the aftertaste of caramelized dates than any kind of gourmand in the sense of candy. It’s friendlier and more prone to giving in.
If you have tried the different versions of Interlude, do you have a preference?
I tried Interlude (both Woman and Man versions) and Interlude Black Iris. All three are not my favorite Amouages, but I didn’t find any of them unpleasant – just not something that I’d want to wear as my personal perfume. Why? Al three were a lot more masculine than I prefer my leather perfumes. I keep planning to try Black Iris on my vSO (after all, I paid for that official sample! 🙂 ), but keep forgetting. I think I might enjoy it on him a lot more.
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I haven’t tried the Interlude 53 (at least I don’t recall) but I am familiar with Interlude and Black Iris. I do find the iris variant more approachable, somehow friendlier and softer. It is so interesting that you find Interlude 53 agreeable in many conditions. I’ll have to sample it in the summer and see what it brings to the table.
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I have Interlude Man from 2012 in my collection, Nose Prose. Although I have not ventured beyond this fragrance aside from sampling the other versions, I still appreciate Interlude Man completely. You compare Interlude Black Iris to wearing a favorite cashmere sweater, whereas my association with Interlude Man resembles a black leather coat lined with plush, animalic fur. I will need to revisit this one.
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It occurs to me that scent is a lot like temperature and tactile sensory input in terms of being extremely difficult to replicate in the entertainment space, but at some point in the future, someone is going to make a lot of money after figuring out how to do it. I took my nieces to Legoland two years ago during a really hot summer day and remember appreciating the “4D” theater that had gusts of wind and chilled “arctic air” for certain scenes, but aside from helping us cool down, the technology wasn’t quite there yet.
Likewise, I don’t think the future of olfactory entertainment is in something akin to a 3D printer with the ingredients for scent-mixing. Too difficult to maintain consistency, to cleanse palates or even prevent piracy. (You don’t want hackers teasing trade secrets out of code.)
But manipulating the brain at the sensory level so we’re fooled into *thinking* we’re smelling something…well, that could be something. It could have applications for everything from remotely sampling perfumes and colognes to increasing immersion in movies and games.
Apologies, I know that’s not the subject of your post, but that’s where my head went while reading this and thinking of reconstructing the scent you’re describing in my mind.
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