It’s been a while since I really tried to parse the dimensions of a perfume, so I decided to commit to the exercise with my sample of Impression Rose Oil Isparta from the Ostens discovery set I purchased in London. This is the one they didn’t have available to test at Boots Fragrance, and the one I looked forward to trying the most.

Per the brand, “Ostens was born from our desire to create beautiful fragrances, using the world’s finest ingredients in their purest form.” Impression Rose Oil Isparta by perfumer Dominique Ropion features Isparta rose oil from LMR along with Rose Essential LMR. The brand copy describes the perfume as “a voluptuous, addictive floral” and “instantly warm and enveloping.”

My personal perception of the fragrance is on the cooler register. The rose first appears citrusy and bright, supported vertically by pink pepper CO₂ extract and the green top notes of rosemary oil, coriander, and cardamom. This lineup of spicy and herbal elements leads the rose into potpourri territory and highlights a musty facet. Overall, the color yellow fills my mind rather than red, although I don’t mean a classic yellow rose. I picture a wild rose with five petals and nothing to hide.

If I spritz more boldly multiple times, I get the full-on sweet and jammy rose and blackcurrant bud absolute, but this impression is fleeting and soon replaced once again by the green spices. On fabric, the florals are more apparent, with the orange flower absolute possibly taking on a fruity character, letting the perfume dress up as a summer cocktail for a moment. This fermented juicy phase gives way to a creamier, muskier, soft floral. I’m guessing the Cashmeran in the base is responsible for this effect, contrasted by a slightly smoky labdanum resinoid to retain structure and extend the floral notes. Patchouli oil is in the background but never far, as the fusty aspect of dry petals continues to lurk.

I should mention that all the listed natural ingredients are from LMR. I wish I could smell the Isparta rose oil on its own, but that would be a boutique special.

Some people don’t like rose as a dominant note, and rose lovers (like me) probably have a preferred style of rose perfumes. Mine tends to wear a leather jacket, eat fruit, and bathe in musks. All this to gently say that Impression Rose Oil Isparta isn’t to my particular taste, but it may well suit those who prefer a quieter, greener rose.