I’ve had the good (?) fortune of being captivated by a smoky rose perfume on passersby in both Paris and Istanbul, over a decade apart. On both, and possibly more, occasions, I didn’t attempt to cross the language barrier to ascertain what it was. They weren’t the same fragrance, I’m pretty sure, but they both had a certain imprint that remains an olfactory grail for me to this day.
Rudimentary AI told me that Amouage Opus XII Rose Incense (2019; perfumer Bruno Jovanovic) was a prime specimen of smoky rose, and based on the listed notes, my desire to try it skyrocketed:
- Top: Elemi, Olibanum (Frankincense) Hyper Absolute, Black Ink Accord
- Heart: Damascena Rose Water Essential, Suederal, Frankincense Absolute
- Base: Myrrh, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Cedarwood
Fortunately, I was able to purchase a decant (my first ever that wasn’t packaged as a small sample vial!). I’ll say up front that this didn’t turn out to be my grail, but it has a lot going for it. It’s meant to be opulent and mysterious—per the brand, “Inspired by the uncertainty, drama and memories evoked by the unsolved, rosebud mystery. Rose Incense is distinctively floral and unmistakably woody with unique and contemporary elements.”
Having never seen the film Citizen Kane or really wondered about the meaning of “Rosebud” beyond its appearances in the comic strip Peanuts (spoiler: it’s a sled!), my first impressions were free from these heavier associations. Somehow, Opus XII Rose Incense gave me a “dark academia” vibe from the start, possibly because of the strong, dusty opening accompanying the fresh, dewy rose.
The promised inky note reads oddly minty to my nose, which regrettably isn’t a positive for me, although the creamy vanilla isn’t far behind to reassure me of better things to come. The overall picture is luminous thanks to the abundance of frankincense and elemi, both ingredients I love. Others have mentioned the bitterness of myrrh, but I interpret this as a fleeting moment of ruggedness and a predominant cardboard effect in the aura.
On my arm, Opus XII Rose Incense opens as a peppery rose, quickly followed by smoky resins, which by now are familiar but still hinting that they’re hiding something. I don’t quite manage to detect Suederal, a leathery aroma base I’ve smelled extensively on its own and played with in my experiments. Nor do I follow the comparison with Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady that many have suggested. To me, this is a pink rose adorned by its greenery and buried just under the other notes—it demands to be sought out by close sniffing for its reward.
The rose blends well with creamy woods in the base in later phases, but the lingering incense keeps it airy for as long as it can. In the final drydown, the rose stands tall amid a powdery vanilla base reminiscent of Bulgari Black but pinker and less sweet, yet not quite avoiding its infamous rubber territory.
All this time, it brings to my mind a gray backdrop. Is this more reflective of me or of Opus XII Rose Incense? If you know this fragrance, what does it evoke to you?
Nose Prose 
Your title for this post caught my attention immediately. And I love your description of this Amouage. I’ve always wanted to try it, but haven’t had the opportunity to do so yet. In the meantime, though, Gold Woman and Lyric Woman do the rose-incense thing absolutely gorgeously for me.
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Another vote for Lyric Woman! I must revisit it. Rose Incense is getting harder to find compared with newer offerings.
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Sounds so interesting Nose Prose. One of the things I love about perfume is how different every ride can be across a bunch of reviewers. All our associations and links as well as how our personal scent can combine and change the outcome.
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So true! The same perfume can also show up differently on me on different days, or sometimes on different clothes… maybe the fabric is yet another variable among the many others.
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See? THIS is exactly what I mean. Perfumes are shape shifters.
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To be honest, I found Opus XII – Rose Incense a slight disappointment. I had high hopes because it was an Amouage release. However, things have certainly changed with the brand, and continue to be in the bland category.
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I wonder if the original red bottle version (before Opus) was different. From my brief reading, it doesn’t seem so.
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I think Dark Academia and gray backdrop are both excellent descriptors. I wore this to a graduation party a few weeks ago. This is a rose that envelops, but floats. Perhaps the incense you mention. Dark and mysterious is how I describe it. That was my experience. Seems we have a similar take.
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It sounds like we have similar impressions of Rose Incense! I get what you mean that it seems to float as well as envelop. Did anyone comment on it at the party?
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Nope. Not a one. Though, I was hoping they would.
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I’ve tried a few from this Opus line, but I always forget which ones. I’m pretty sure I’ve not tried this one, though. I like a few of the Amouage rose fragrances, including the two Lyrics, so I will have to check this out.
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This is quite different from my distant memory of Lyric (Woman). That was bright and opulent if I recall, with nothing dusty about it at all. Opus XIV Royal Tobacco was quite hyped when it came out – perhaps you’ve tried it?
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I think I did try the Royal Tobacco in store when it came out. Though, I can’t recall how it smelled. I probably tried quite a few things that same day, and it must not have left much of an impression.
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When Opus XII was released the Library perfume line was way too overpriced for me to try. Whilst other fragrance houses have now pitched themselves at this level of spendy, it has simply meant more scents I don’t try.
As with most early fragrance lovers I did go gaga for the early main range of Amouage. My Amouage rose is Lyric Woman, the outlier when it comes to the smoky element. The Silver Frankincense in Lyric Woman is more that of the tears before burning. That slightly antiseptic, euphoric, balsamic mix of aromas that is so hard to describe. She isn’t smoky at all, just lushly complex
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I had a sample of Lyric Woman years ago and felt like it wore me rather than the other way around. Maybe I should try it again to see if either of us has changed, especially now that I’m more familiar with frankincense.
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Lyric is so deeply complex. Incredibly difficult to parse the notes. Almost all my most loved fragrances are the “perfumes in the style of perfume” complexity. No longer fashionable, but very much to my taste.
Do you enjoy OJ Ta’if or Aramis Calligraphy Rose? If so, Lyric may now be more wearable.
Actually, that’s a thought, Aramis Calligraphy Rose whilst not smokey is done in the Rise/Saffron style of a decade ago. If you can find this dc’ed beauty, do have a sniff
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I liked Ta’if and need to smell it again. Calligraphy Rose was another name that kept coming up in my online search for smoky roses, but it wasn’t easily available to sample.
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