It’s been a while since I really tried to parse the dimensions of a perfume, so I decided to commit to the exercise with my sample of Impression Rose Oil Isparta from the Ostens discovery set I purchased in London. This is the one they didn’t have available to test at Boots Fragrance, and the one I looked forward to trying the most.
Per the brand, “Ostens was born from our desire to create beautiful fragrances, using the world’s finest ingredients in their purest form.” Impression Rose Oil Isparta by perfumer Dominique Ropion features Isparta rose oil from LMR along with Rose Essential LMR. The brand copy describes the perfume as “a voluptuous, addictive floral” and “instantly warm and enveloping.”
My personal perception of the fragrance is on the cooler register. The rose first appears citrusy and bright, supported vertically by pink pepper CO2 extract and the green top notes of rosemary oil, coriander, and cardamom. This lineup of spicy and herbal elements leads the rose into potpourri territory and highlights a musty facet. Overall, the color yellow fills my mind rather than red, although I don’t mean a classic yellow rose. I picture a wild rose with five petals and nothing to hide.
If I spritz more boldly multiple times, I get the full-on sweet and jammy rose and blackcurrant bud absolute, but this impression is fleeting and soon replaced once again by the green spices. On fabric, the florals are more apparent, with the orange flower absolute possibly taking on a fruity character, letting the perfume dress up as a summer cocktail for a moment. This fermented juicy phase gives way to a creamier, muskier, soft floral. I’m guessing the Cashmeran in the base is responsible for this effect, contrasted by a slightly smoky labdanum resinoid to retain structure and extend the floral notes. Patchouli oil is in the background but never far, as the fusty aspect of dry petals continues to lurk.
I should mention that all the listed natural ingredients are from LMR. I wish I could smell the Isparta rose oil on its own, but that would be a boutique special.
Some people don’t like rose as a dominant note, and rose lovers (like me) probably have a preferred style of rose perfumes. Mine tends to wear a leather jacket, eat fruit, and bathe in musks. All this to gently say that Impression Rose Oil Isparta isn’t to my particular taste, but it may well suit those who prefer a quieter, greener rose.
Nose Prose 
Loved this review but I’d never heard of this brand. Thanks nose Prose, it sounds very interesting.
Portia xx
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It looks like their availability outside the UK is very limited.
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AH! Another reason to come visit.
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This post is timely, Nose Prose, as Rose is something I’ve been exploring alot of lately. All three of my Amouge’s have it, and I wore Opus XII to a function the other day: dark and mysterious, definitely smoky. I wasn’t reviewing it, though, so didn’t give it the attention it deserved. Today I’m wearing Rose Cherie, from Guerlain. By your description of Rose Oil Insparta, this sounds like it operates in the same sub-class. Lighter, a little airy, definitely fruity. While I’m enjoying this one, you and I–and others here, it seems–definitely share an affinity for rose’s darker presentations.
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I sought out a decant of Opus XII Rose Incense recently hoping it would be “the one” based on the notes… turns out it isn’t, but it carries a dark academia vibe. The ink note translates to mint to my nose, which doesn’t work for me. Still, I will enjoy the rest of my decant.
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I would have to agree with you, Nose Prose. As far as roses go, I too prefer a rose that wears a leather jacket, eat fruit, and bathe in musks. There are countless other facets of roses waiting to be discovered. In recent years, I’ve come across a plethora of captivating expressions of smoky roses, many of which I find enjoyable. While I occasionally relish the invigorating scent of a wild, spicy rose, I find myself gravitating more towards a darker, more dramatic expression.
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I’m still on the search for my smoky rose! Maybe one day I’ll get the courage to ask the wearer what it is when they walk by wafting its sillage.
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I overcame that fear years ago. Most people are flattered when asked that question.
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Roses are hit & miss for me. Pot pourri roses are a yes so this would be worth me sniffing.
Fresh rose like Paul Smith Rose I enjoy as a summer pick me up. Rose/patch has numerous representatives in my collection. Leather roses can be hit & miss. Kerosine Whips & Roses was somewhat heavy on the whips & rectified birch tar. It scared me off exploring the partnership further.
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I love Paul Smith Rose as well and enjoy the rose/patch profile. Haven’t smelled the Kerosene and was probably thinking more of Galop when I wrote that, as most of my rose perfumes aren’t leathery. Birch tar tends to take over too strongly.
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The Kerosene was dc’ed over a decade ago.
Such a shame PS Rose is dc’ed. Should still be at discounters for years though.
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This one sounds interesting, Nose Prose. I like my rose paired with leathery notes, but often it’s just too warm here to wear such a scent. One of the exceptions is Rose and Cuir by Malle which has enough freshness from its geranium and vetiver facets to brighten everything. But, you’ve piqued my interest in the brand with your description. The patchouli ones interest me also.
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Agree that any one style of rose isn’t the be-all-end-all of roses. I recall liking Rose and Cuir upon a quick sniff, but need to spend proper time with it next time I get a chance.
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